Today we are going to review some new model tanks, and I think you find the best!
Best Model Tanks in 2020 – Comparison Table
Okay, let’s take a look at the parts of the kit here. Uh, the lower hole is the multi piece. Uh, just a couple of pieces went together really nicely lined up, really square you the upper hall, once again with one piece very nice has done as well. You’ll also notice that there are some casting marks that add a real nice touch of realism to it as well as the ray serial numbers. One of the things I’ll point out to you too, although this kid is white, this was an early version that was sent out to me. Uh, I believe the actual kid itself will become an all of drab when it’s finally released to the public. Uh, you also notice that the sponsors aren’t hollowed out anymore, so you will get no light bleed through. If you open up the hatches of the Turret, there are all the suspension parts in the wheels. Uh, although the suspension only has a few pieces to make it up, it is very finely detailed and looks really, really well once it’s done.
one other thing I want to point out about this kid. This is not the task of the kit in any way. To me, a few months back, issue to task a kit in their own box. Uh, but they actually made, made it known that it was a task, a kit. This is all completely brand new tooling. The suspension parts looked like that. They have been reworked from the kit that came out a few years ago. The Israeli imm 51 a, they have a 2011 stamp on it, but they’ve also had right next to 2015.
So I believe they’ve been reworked a little bit, but the 2011 pieces were absolutely beautiful. So and add state of the art
, one nice thing about having white kit parts is you might notice on this, one of the parts was in the tweezers went flying and fell onto my carpet in my store here. The white stuck out really good against the, uh, the blue floor. So it was very easy to find cause normally, the olive green color disappears right into it.
We’re about halfway through the model right now, and you just want to tell you what an absolute pleasure this kid was. The work on to me has really done a great job engineering: the lower hall suspension, the suspension. I’ve built both the Dragon Kit as well as the task of Kit. Of the and both of those kits go crazy with the number of parts they make, the all the different parts move and all that kind of stuff that I could care less about because I’m going to have it just on a flat surface. This was very easy to put together as you could see in the previous parts of the video. It actually only took me just over two hours to get to this portion of it, so I think the rest of the kid’s going to be a breeze as well.
also, take a notice that the vision ports on the commander’s Coppola are hollowed out, and they actually give you clear styrene parts to work as the windows. Okay? In this step, I’m going to paint the entire model, all of Drab, a couple of Nice, nice coats on there to darken it up.
Now I’m going to take some black, actually NATO black, and I’m going to go over the wheels. Highlight the rubber and kind of put some shadow effect on the inside of some of the, uh, suspension components.
I’m kind of copying the movie tank fury, which had some black stripes on it, some diagonal ones going from top to bottom. So I’m applying those right here, using some NATO black.
We’re attaching the extra track pieces to the side of the hall here.
I decided to go ahead with a value gear aftermarket pack of resin, I’m going to paint them up in some multicolors of Greens and tans and things like that, and we’re going apply it on the back and then rope it all down. It’ll give it a nice fact to the tank.
after you attach all of the different pieces to it here, you’re going to want to take, uh, some dull coat and spray the entire model down. That’ll flatten out all the paint as well as seal it in. It’ll also give the backpacks and things on the back flatter, finished more look like fabric rather than kind of a shiny thing from dry brushing.
I’m going to do a little bit of dry brushing right here to kind of highlight a few things.
okay, mate. I’m some logs for the side of the tank that would help with the arm of protection. I actually just use some twigs out from the backyard, took a little rope, tied them all together with some super glue. And then I actually made some brackets that I drilled into the side of the hall. Just a little tiny of sprue that sticks up. Just something that’ll grab the top of the rope to keep them from falling off. Okay. We finished up the model. I did do a slight bit of weathering on the tracks in the road wheels. Do you have it? A little bit of dirt and grime. I didn’t want to go too crazy cause this was, more or less say, a review of the new to me, a kit, which is absolutely wonderful kit to put together. Uh, no fit problems—just a matter of putting it together and then putting some paint on it.
This kit will be available approximately mid-December according to Tamia, and she’d have a retail of about $56 to me as I knew him for a three e eight is a great kit, very few parts, very high detail, easy to put together. Uh, and I definitely recommend; I hope you enjoyed our video, and please stay tuned cause we have more coming. Thank you.
I’m going to splice in some still pictures of the model, which have better detail in lighting than what I can do right here. But this is the trumpeter one 35th scale kv too. Um, heavy tank for lack of a better term. This is from early World War II. Around the time of Barbara Rosa Soviet tank. It was basically a cave kv, one heavy tank chassis with this 152 millimeter. How it’s been slapped on a massive turret to fit it on, kind of intended as a self preparer, howitzer, or assault gun. They only made about 300 of them, and they’re a few variants.
So I’m going to start really just telling you about the kit. Uh, it’s cheap. It’s one of the cheapest kids I bought recently. You can get it on eBay with free shipping in us running 20 to $25 most of the time, which is pretty dirt cheap, and it’s a good kit. You know you don’t always get that combination. A lot of good kids are pretty expensive. Um, of course, it’s all styrene, but it actually comes with, uh, it comes with THRASS tow cables in the kit, which is kind of neat. A lot of times you have to pay aftermarket for them. And the other neat feature of the kid I liked a lot is the tracks that should give you two versions in the box. They give you the like vinyl rubber band kind, um, that is good if you are kind of a beginner a kid and he just wants a slash and tracks on it.
But they actually give these Lincoln link tracks that come with built-in Sag. Um, cause the KV II had pretty ubiquitous sag. And I think, you know, for Lincoln length, the styrene tracks, they look good. Um, and they’re easy to make. And so, for a really cheap price, you get a pretty accurate kit. Um, with some metal towed cables, which is nice. The uh, I really had no complaints about the engineering or the instructions of the kit. The box has some whole Harriet’s, uh, description material on the side, which is kind of a feature of trumpeter kits occasionally. Um, no problems with the build. I think my hall was ever so slightly warped, but that was easy to fix with some rubber bands. So if you’re interested in the topic, you know, kv two or trumpeter has a whole line of kv one tanks.
I really can’t recommend them enough for the price. I think they’re one of the best kits on the market. Now I built this one basically out of the box just as a kind of relaxing and build, but there are a number of aftermarkets available. I was going to run through what I would suggest, you know, certainly can build-out of the box like I did. It comes out great. Um, the aftermarket things you might be interested in. They do, of course make a metal, a barrel for the gun. The Kit gun looks fine. It’s pretty easy to sand up and keep it around, but it’s a massive how it’s earned. If you look at the, uh, the metal aftermarket barrels, they’re actually rifled, and you can see the rifling on the inside of the boar. It’s pretty cool. Um, granted, it’ll cost you about half the price of the kit, so you just decide if you want to spend the money.
Um, of course, you can always upgrade the metal tracks, and they would look pretty awesome on this kit. And if you’re doing it for competition or you just love metal tracks, I would consider it, but they’re going to cost as much if not more than the base kit. And honestly, I think these plastic tracks do a pretty good job. Um, they also make a complete photo, which set, which, you know, I think the main advantage of is you get a little bit of a scale thickness on the fenders. But again, the kit fenders don’t look too bad. So you know, if you’re going for a big competition or something, I think it’d be neat if there are a couple of detail, PE features I’ve seen that are neat that some people do like over here that that’s actually a little pistol port and I’ve seen a few people in line drill it out and have a tiny pee chain with the the port open and the chain handling hanging down, and that looks pretty awesome.
So you could consider any three of those upgrades. And of course, you know, the the light, this is just the kit light with some silver paint behind it to make it shine. I think the brake light turned out looking fine, but the headlight, you can get the little model railroad headlights that are much nicer than this. I would upgrade it to so you could consider all of them. I don’t think any are needed on this kit. Um, as far as how I built the kid up, this kid’s built up, um, you know, basically in two days. The base paint is mission models, which I really like. It’s a four bio. Um, which is like a base Russian kind of the standard green they use in the second world war. Um, there’s a little bit of chipping on it, but not a lot. There’s a lot of oil paint rendering.
I use whatever brand’s oil paints and have lying around. Um, a fair amount of pigment work. Mostly with VMS pigments. I’m a big fan of them. Some other things the, the exhaust, those are mostly done up in living color. Um, they make an ice rust kit. It’s like four or five colors of Russ paint that I recommend. I don’t like life color in general. It doesn’t spray well through the Airbrush, but it does well with rust. It’s really flat, dries instantly, and it’s great for like sponging, which you can do with rust. The one thing I did to the tracks, and I think it made them look really more real, was these Gucci brand metal polishing patterns. I can’t, oh, I can’t wrap these enough. Buy these; these are great. They make anything look like real metal. Um, it’s pretty much what I use to finish it.
I’m trying to think if there’s anything else. I need to tell you about this kit. Uh, one thing there are, um, we did thin out this rust, um, this, of course, this mesh could be replaced with PE and the big PE sets. That’s about it. Uh, it’s not a bad kid. It’s a good kid. And if you factor in the price, it’s probably the best kit for the dollar that I’ve built, period—the end. I highly recommend these trumpeter one 35th cave. You want to keep your two kits. I’ll put a link down in the uh, description of um, Adam Wadler has as a great series of videos, weathering and building up a kv one. Um, and you can kind of play along with them if you build your own and learn a lot of new weathering techniques. Oh, the decal, they look cool, right?
It’s a Soviet communist propaganda slogan. This actually says xos style, and apparently if you translate it, thankfully, some guys on Instagram helped me out and told me what it meant. Um, these were put on a lot of Soviet tanks, uh, early in world war two. There is no photo evidence of a decal or a, you know, saying like that, a slogan being painted on the side of the kv too.
Today we’re going to be keeping with our World War One theme that we’ve been doing lately, and we’re going to be building the brand new kit from Taca, the one 35th scale British mark one female tank. It looks like a real nice one. So let’s get started on that. Now actually before we do, I’ve had a lot, a lot of requests over the last couple of months, and then all my new subscribers and a lot of people asking about whether or not I have an online store since I do have the hobby store, it’s so, so I’ve decided to open up an online store, and that’s what I’ve been doing for about the last week. And that’s why there hasn’t been a kid out up until now. Uh, it’s at Andy’s hobby headquarters.com. I’ve started putting a couple of hundred items on it right now, and it is open for business. Uh, I’ll be adding new stuff all the time to it, but I thought I’d take a break and build a model for you guys. So if you get a chance, please check it out. I’d appreciate it. Thanks.
Okay. After we’ve put all the little pieces on right here, I’ve gone over all the scenes again with another coat of liquid glue, and this is going to strengthen up everything in case we missed any little spots. There are a lot of little pieces and a lot of intricacy to it, but it actually fit together really well and no fit problems. Just a little tough getting some of the little areas to line up just right. But once you do, they pop right into place. Okay, now I’m going to start the wheel assembly rather than make you watch all of that. I’ll just kind of go over; basically this is just half of the wheels for one side, the the B type wheel. The wheels are actually gonna go together just like this.
And, and then you put, I like this. Now I have a little more clean-up to do on this and actually a lot of cleanup on to do on all the other ones, but get a general idea of what it’s gonna look like. So there are 16 of these wheels I have to make for this side in 11 of the smaller wheels. So I’m going to get work on cleaning up all those pieces and getting those on. Okay, now I’ve got all the road wheels all built up right here in the two different piles, and now it’s just a matter of following the diagram up above and getting them all back into place. Let’s do that.
Okay. I was able to let all the wheels in, and that is a really, really tough process. Uh, some things that work out for us, cause once you get all the wheels in here, they say don’t glue them in. But what happens is they’re moving and bouncing all over the place. And then you also have to line up the other peg on this side as well. So what I ended up doing is I just went ahead and glued the first row onto the bottom of the a the sponsoring, and let that dry for a little bit. I came back and then slowly put it together. And you’re going to have to use your knife to poke it in there because even with the glue on those, they are not 100% lined up, and you can knock them into the right place. And after a little finagling here and there, you can get the whole thing locking once it locks in; it fit really well. It’s just because of all the road wheels at British tanks have from World War One, just a lot, a lot of work. So now I’m actually gonna start the other side. I won’t videotape that cause it’s gonna be the exact mirror image of this, and we’ll come back when we do the outer sponsors with the machine guns.
I decided to take that apart and take it and glue each site on individually seems to be really fragile, and want to flex too much this way. It’s going to all line up a lot better. So now when we put the second half on it, too, we’ll foot right into its little crack right in here, and then we can actually just go and head in, place the machine gun. And after we get all this part lined up, it seems a little bit easier than trying to build the first part and then sliding the second part in.
Okay. The next thing I want to talk about is probably the nicest thing about this kit are the individual tracks. They come in a bag like this already pre-cut out, and all you have to do is snap them together, and they’re completely workable once they do them. And what’s even nicer is that you can actually get an entire run of these together, and they actually stay together like they’re supposed to. So there are 90 tracks on each side and this is just going to be a test fit cause we’re going to paint the tracks of course later, take the 90 look how they stay together and the actual pad is going to line up perfectly. I’m actually very, very impressed with that.
This is the next part that we’re going to build the outer sponsoring with machine guns completing. It looks like there’s a lot of little multifaceted pieces here we’re going to have to mess with, so let’s see how it comes out.
Let’s put it on here and a quick note too, when you’re working on a model using extra thin cement or any type of liquid cement for that matter, if and notice that a little bit extra gets on little areas right here and makes the plastic shiny, the one thing you want to be careful of is not to touch that area. If you let it dry, it’ll dry completely flat and you can paint right over it. You’ll never notice was there. But if you do touch that area, you’re going to put a fingerprint into it. So just be careful that sometimes you’ll see some shiny spots on the model that I’m working on and it’s just a little excess liquid glue. And as long as you don’t touch it won’t, won’t damage anything. Now let’s try to get this side on. I’m Kinda surprised they didn’t just somehow mold this as one or two pieces rather than make us go through all this really tiny little work on all these things. That can be a little difficult sometimes if not almost impossible sometimes trying to film it at the same time.
That’s one thing I’ve noticed on this model too. It’s, it’s not necessarily a negative thing. This model requires a little extra glue for the set off. Usually to me, glue sets off pretty easily on the first stroke on it, but this one’s requiring just a little bit extra on it. Just just something I’d point out to you. I’m going to let that dry for a second. We’ll be right back. Sometimes I don’t always let the parts dry a lot. And the reason we don’t do that is because sometimes when you’re using these multifaceted pieces that if you let the part beforehand dry too much, there is no give on it and if it’s slightly out of whack, you’ll get a model that will, you’ll have, you have to break the part to get it to fit or it’ll have a odd shape to it. So with it still being somewhat soft, you can see that we can get a nice crisp blind right in there and
Now we just got that last little piece to put on and we should be ready to go.
This next part looks kind of interesting the way they’ve molded it. This looks like this is the top and you just gonna pop that piece right into there. Looks like it lines up pretty nice. Oops. Sorry about that one second lines up pretty nicely.
When I was talking about when the glue is slightly still wet, you can manipulate it enough to get the joints to line up pretty well. I’m going to put the last one in and then we’ll put the root. Actually I’ll put the last one in and then show you how the roof goes on as well of the piece. Put a little glue on in there. We’re going to feed this from the back.
sure. And I’m just going to drop this in here for now cause I’m, I’m going to give it a few seconds for that to dry so I don’t tweak it at all, but give me an idea what the sponsor is going to look like. Okay. I’m going to attach the machine gun outer sponsoring to the, to the part with the wheels here. One thing we’re going to point out to you that I was just trying to drive fit it here. I had to. You’re going to have to, I think in all of these on this little area, this rivet in this rivet right here, I had that even though it’s on the bottom, I had to sand it completely off or it would not fit because of this little little piece of metal that would normally stick out right here. That rivet gets in it’s way into with that there, there’s no way to get the piece to line up, so with that on there though, this will just pop right in afterward and I’ll put some glue on that and you can see how hopefully right there that that rebut would have been right in the way odd shape with where they put it, but just a little sanding and it’ll work perfectly okay.
As you can see, the piece fit on pretty well. I probably put a little of a Leho putty around the said right here. Maybe, maybe not. It might be able to actually push it in a little bit tighter, although it does look pretty good a lot, a lot of work to that sponsoring. I think it does look pretty good. After all said and done. So let’s get going on the other side now.
I have all the subassemblies here and ready to put the final construction together. One thing I’m going to point out is there are some flaps right here that originally the instructions tell you to actually glue into place right here. I found that if you actually attach them to the spots in right here on the side, that it’s going to make it a whole lot easier to plug in and not try to line it up, whereas this is already solid and not gonna move at all. So, uh, let’s start putting all these pieces together.
Now that we have the left side on, we want to go ahead and install the back wheels here, being careful not to knock any of this stuff off and then it’ll just melt right inside of that. And then we’ll glue the other side on.
I’m painting the entire model, the tracks and all a NATO black color. And that’s going to give our shadow coat before we actually put our regular paint job on.
Now we’re gonna paint the a, the actual color of the model. I use the mixture of 60% 50s, um, XF 57 and 40% XF 52 flat earth and I made a world war one type Brown that I mixed up enough of it. So I have for future purposes as well. So let’s put that on and see how it comes out.
okay. We finish up the model right here and I was very, very impressed with the quality of this kit went together really, really well. The tracks are incredible. I can’t, I can’t stop talking enough about them. The fact that you can put 90 links together, snap them all together and they actually stay together during painting during trying to wrap it around the entire hall here. Normally you have them splitting and cracking like on another companies. This one went together, stayed together the entire time. One thing I’ll point out to you when you’re building this kit is you want to use the liquid cement and not allow it to completely dry. When you’re doing this outer spots in here. The reason you want to do that is if one of the facets is slightly off, when you go to put the next piece on, it won’t line up completely so this way if you leave them slightly soft, the pieces will fit together much better and you can actually kind of tweak it as you go.
The photo edge screens went together beautifully. Now you notice I didn’t do any weathering or beating it up at all. I actually plan on doing a Diorama. I had so much fun doing that little whippet Dye Arama that I thought I’m going to do a much bigger one. Put some figures on it, maybe a little trench scene and with something like this and maybe even the whip it to both together so when it comes time to actually weathering it, I want it to match the terrain and stuff that’ll be in the Dye Arama.
This review of the Emma for a one Sherman tank based on the version as featured in the world war tunes computer game from men. As a result, this model doesn’t have any set scale and is to a very cartoony style, but that’s what caught my eye and I purchased it as a result before we start the kit. As always, remember that adult supervision may be required due to the use of sharp tools and toxic paints and chemicals. Mang recommends this kit for those aged 14 years and over.
The box is pretty sturdy and has some excellent and eye-catching artwork. It advertises paints and other items that are recommended for use in the construction of this kit. Not to mention the rear of the box advertises the computer game, world war tunes.
The contents of the box are all contained within a clear plastic bag. The first thing I look at is the instruction booklet, which comes as a glossy full color eight page booklet that contains step-by-step pictures that are quite clear to follow and are multilingual.
A small sheet of decals are included that come in a small bag and covered with protective paper. The parts of the kits are held on three dark green plastic sprues. The components are finally molded and have no flash whatsoever. The only thing I noticed was that the plastic is incredibly hard, which presents a little challenge in the upcoming construction. The final thing included in the kit are the tank tracks which are molded rubber loops.
The construction begins by removing the parts from the sprue of a knife and I attempted to file the burgers with a nail file, but as previously stated, the plastic was very hard and this didn’t work effectively. As a result, I take to cutting the burrs off with a knife instead.
The first date is the suspension, which if assembled correctly, will allow the wheels and tracks to turn when completed. I feel as though cement is not a necessity for this kit as all of the parts either push or click together and form a solid bond. I do however use poly cement throughout my belt in order to ensure it remains assembled. Having completed the suspension, I then move onto the running gear and heart of the tank. I was surprised that many parts of the kit would detailing elements such as towing hooks and piping, etc. The instruction state that the tracks should be added at this stage where the top Holler the tank is installed. I will instead keep them off until the end as I intend to paint the model. A more suitable shade of green. Various detailing parts such as the lights and machine gun are attached at this stage.
If careful at the machine gun can be made to elevate slightly, the majority of the tank is complete. At this point. The only thing left is to build the turret again. The components clip together and don’t really need cement and as a result the gun can be made to elevate and lower just as in the machine gun. Previously the hatches on the top of the terror can also be made to open and close, but mine seemed very loose so I made the decision to cement them closed and it is at this point now where all the little details have been attached to the model that I began painting. I chose humble acrylic 159 Matt cocky drab as I had it left over from the build of my Cromwell tank, which I’ll add the link for under the video. I thin the paint with a drop of water in order to allow it to flow better and prevent any visible brush strokes being seen on the model.
Whilst I finish up painting the kit, I’ll tell you a little more about the m four Sherman tank named after William Sherman and American civil war general. The m four tank became one of the widest use tanks by the Western allies during World War II. This was due to its reliability, ease of repair and manufacturer, and then outclass many of its rivals early in the war. The popularity of the Sherman meant that it found itself being used by many nations for prolonged periods even after it had been surpassed by more recent tanks with the last Sherman’s being retired in 2018 from the Paraguay presidential escort regiment. Having completed the overall color scheme, I then gave the areas that required decals, a coat of humble Saturn 135 enamel, which I thin with white spirit. I sat in on gloss varnish should be used as the base for the application of decals.
As this prevents the decals from pairing silver and shiny on the model. The cows were soaked in warm water and then gently applied to the Kipp, which had already been given a coat of humble decal fixed solution. In the relevant position, the decals are positioned and left to cure. The solution allows for the decals to conform to the complicated contours and details of the model and look like they’re painted on when the decals are dried. The model was then given a coat of Humber 49 matte varnish enamel, again thinned with white spirit, humble 11 silver was then dry brushed over the model to give it a light metallic effect and highlight the details. I removed the majority of the paint off of the paintbrush onto a towel. Then with the residual paint, I brushed it over the model and only the raised details. We’ll collect the silver paint and make them look slightly chipped as if revealing the bare metal underneath.
Another step was to pick out the small details such as the red realize and the shovels on the side of the hill in relevant colors. I use acrylics for this. The tracks were then dry brushed with some acrylic Humboldt 53 gun metal paint in order to highlight the details. When this paint was dry, the tracks were then added to the model, gently stretching them over the wheels and pushing them into place. If all has gone well, they should turn reasonably freely and here’s the finished model. I love the shape and design of this kit, although it’s not accurate to the original Sherman tank or to any particular scale. I think the cartoony style is great and will add interest at any display or collection. The parts are well molded and fit together well, but as mentioned, the plastic is very hard and that makes it difficult to file the burrs off after removing them from the sprue.
The kit retails for under 10 pounds in the United Kingdom, which I think is a good price, especially as it has high quality parts instructions and decals. I think that it’s good that it relates to a computer game too and as a result it might just encourage some new people into the hobby. I think I might have to get some of the other kids in this range so that I can build a Dye Rama of these World War II tanks.
So let’s get started. The kit comes complete with four paints, a small tube of poly cement and the paintbrush. The rear of the box has the printed painting and decal instructions whilst the assembly instructions are contained inside the box itself. The kit is comprised of a small sheet of decals and two sprues of component parts all molded in the typical gray plastic and to a scale of one 76 the instructions recommend that the parts be washed in warm soapy water in order to ensure they are properly clean and give a good surface for the cementum paint to adhere to. I didn’t bother with this step. However, as I was so eager to get on with the construction with these efforts, kids watch out for the flying hours tokens on the boxes. If you join the air club, these can be redeemed against more kits. I’ve never used my flying hours, so I have quite a stash. One day I’ll join the club so I can use them all.
The first step I chose to complete was to paint the component parts, the relevant color, whilst they were still on the sprue. The paints included in the set we used, and I know some of you, it will point out that they really should be thinned, but I wanted to see what the results would be like straight out of the pot to get the best results with these acrylic paints. They can be thinned with water, although specialists then as are available, I tend to do about one to two ratio of water to paint, but you may have to experiment with what works best for you. The reason the paint can be thinned is in order to avoid leaving brush strokes on the finished model, keeping the paint more fluid until it dries will result in fewer visible imperfections. My general rule of thumb when painting is to start with the lightest color first, then progress to the darker colors.
I find that it’s always easiest to paint a dark color over a light one rather than the other way round. As a result, I’ll start with the overall green first and highlight the wheels were black and the tracks have metallic graphed words. Whilst you watch me finish up the painting of the Kit, I’ll tell you a little bit about the actual Cranwell mart for tank. The tank was officially named cruiser tank Mark Eight and was one of the most successful British tanks of the Second World War. It was named after the English civil war leader, Oliver Cromwell and it turned out to be an adept and rugged fighting machine serving until the end of the war while outgunned and out armored by German tanks. The while managed to hold its own through better maneuverability. It’s relatively small size and its reliability and combat. The paint scheme FX have depicted in this kit. Is that a Cromwell mart four of the fifth Royal Horse Artillery, Seventh Armored Division, British army in Europe 1944 slash 45
It is worth noting that there are alternative parts for this kit. You may be able to notice that the sprues include the extensions that were applied over the exhaust and intakes in order to allow it to take part in the amphibious landings of the day. I decided to discard these parts and build it without them as I’ve got another project in mind for this kit when it’s finished, which does not require these parts to be used. The construction of the kit starts by removing the pads which are all numbered with a sharp blade and sanding any burrs or flush that may remain from the molding process. FX recommends that people constructing this kit be over the age of eight years old as sharp tools and the use of chemicals such as the paints and solvents can be toxic and give off fumes. As always, remember the adult supervision may be required. The base or hull of the tank are the first parts to be constructed. I find that all of the parts have been designed to fit together really well, which is a result of this being a more recently taught kit. I didn’t need to use Phil at any point in the construction of this kit.
The fiddly as part of the construction it was the assembly and installation of the wheels and tracks when completed. They do not function over rotate as the wheels are cemented in position and the tracks are molded to a specific shape. Having constructed those parts, I made a note to go back and touch up any paint that had been chipped or removed during assembly. The main body of the tank goes together well and has a number of small pars special care needs to be taken in order to ensure that they are attached in the correct orientation more than once. I attempted to apply them upside down. The target of the tank is easy to construct too and if careful the main gun could be made to traverse up and down and the toe be made to rotate on top of the home. I found that in order to allow for this functionality, some of the paints I had applied had to be removed gently sending it away from the hull of the tank in order to allow the terra to turn.
Having completed the construction of the tank. Any areas that needed a touch-up or details highlighted were picked out in the correct colors. A satin varnish was then applied and left to dry prior to the application of decals. A satin or gloss varnish should be used as the base for decals as it prevents the decals from appearing silver and shiny on the model. The decals will come from the sheet soaked in warm water and then gently applied to the kit, which had already been given a coat of Decaux set solution. In the relevant position, the decals are positioned and left to cure. The solution allows for the decafs to conform to the complicated contours and details of the model and look like they’re painted arm. For more information on how to apply decals. I made a video on this topic, so have a look for it on my channel.
The next step is to apply a matte varnish to the model which ensures and even finish and helps blend the decals into the model. When this was dry, I dry brush silver over the model to give it a light metallic effect and highlight the details. A small amount of humble 11 was applied to a brush then removed on the tissue. That brush then dragged over the surface of the kit highlights the raised details without actually painting the entire surface. The final stage was a dark wash, again intended to highlight more detail, particularly the recessed areas. Humber off 33 was mixed of water to about 50 50 ratio and a drop of washing up liquid added to ensure it flowed easily. Any excess wash was gently removed from the model with damp cotton birds or tissue paper. I decided not to, whether the tank any further as the product I have in mind for it doesn’t require it to be in a battle worn condition and here’s the finish model I found it didn’t take too long to complete.
It really helps. The acrylic paints are fast drying time, so realistically the Kit can be constructed in about six hours. It’s quite easy to build, but perhaps a little fiddly with all the wheels if it’s a first time build. If I were to build it again, I’d have a go at using the extra parts which I admitted this time around and also then the paints for better finish, but ultimately I’m happy with the results. This starter set retails for around 10 pounds in the United Kingdom, but I was fortunate to get it at half price as it was on sale. I’ll add the link to the kit in the description under the video if you want to have a go at it yourself. I’m aware that FX also retails this kit on its own and not as part of a starter set. So if you’ve already got the correct colors, that may be a cheaper option.
This model may not be up to the standard of some tank kits available from other manufacturers, but for a first go, it was a good introduction to the genre. As always, let me know what you think of my build techniques and finish model in the comments below. I’m keen to hear your suggestions as to other tanks or vehicles that would be worth a go.